autotek amplifiers

It's incredibly cheap which worries me about the audio quality but has anyone ever tried one? I'm a big audio enthusiast but if it produces a clean sound then is this the amp for me? I'm gonna use it to power Alpine SPR-17s and Infinity Kappa 42.9's.

i reviewed one before, it is cheap and it broke within a week of use. DO NOT BUY IT unless you cant afford anything better. I would suggest Theater Research TR-9500 they are the best out of all that I have heard.

http://www.trtheaterresearch.com/car/tr- 9500.htm

Or if you have a little extra money get the TR-9700

http://www.trtheaterresearch.com/car/tr- 9700.htm

For more information on Theater Research products check them out at http://www.trtheaterresearch.com

You will be able to tell the difference and blow anyone away that has alpine's or infinity's. Since you are an audiophile don't cheap out on these things. Alpine has a big name because they are cheap but semiquailty. But compared to Theater Research they look like dollar store speakers.

2009-08-08 08:22:56 by chazkez08

This is before the Memphis 4kw amp. 1)Autotek SX1200x mono amplifier(plexiglass botton) 1) Kenwood KAC-8402 four channel(custom paint) Eclipes ...

I have a '85 Buick and wanted to know how could I get more voltage to my Autotek MX 1500.1 amplifier. I am running two Pyramid 15's (svc 4 ohm; pre-fab box) and a JVC KD-LH300 radio.
Using an Accuvolt is out of the question; the damn things are as high a my Escalade Insurance a month.
F.Y.I. To be hooked up is a Volvenhag 1.5 stiffening cap (that was given to me), a Kenwwod 4042 pre-amp (trust me, if you find one buy it), and an older model 15 band Audio control eq (I think the band is from 32 hz to 2.5 khz ).
Okay but here's the thing guy's, a friend of mine had a '84 Cutlass, two old (with just the black, yellow, and red colored word Kicker on the front) 15's, two other amps for the 4x6 and 6x9's, and a Kenwood 4042. He was explaining to me how the pre-amp gave the Boltar (Generation X) he so much more voltage and boost. And please believe when I tell that the pressure in that Cutlass was unbeleivable. And to further explain, he had it hooked up in Savannah at I think Kimble's or Street Beat. So it was professionally done.
Okay but here's the thing guy's, a friend of mine had a '84 Cutlass, two old (with just the black, yellow, and red colored word Kicker on the front) 15's, two other amps for the 4x6 and 6x9's, and a Kenwood 4042. He was explaining to me how the pre-amp gave the Boltar (Generation X) he so much more voltage and boost. And please believe when I tell that the pressure in that Cutlass was unbelievable. And to further explain, he had it hooked up in Savannah at I think Kimble's or Street Beat. So it was professionally done.

A second battery won't give you more voltage in parallel (more amperage, in series the voltage will double but a cars electrical won't handle that) and it's just a band-aid for a problem that will come back.

Ugpgrading the alternator is about the only other option.

2006-12-15 00:45:25 by mrlikemthick

Price: $240.00 $112.47

250 x 4 @ 4 OHMS, 500 x 2 @ 2 OHMS - 1000 WATTS x 2 @ 4 OHMS
Blue Illumination Ring
Bridgeable 4/3/2
High Powered Car Amplifier

Everything in my trunk is just pretty much throwed in until I find some place to pit it all. So where can I mount my amplifier and cap to stabilize and to keep from being damaged. I also have my spare tire and factory jack that I am keeping in it's factory locations.

'85 Buick Lesabre; sort of have the trunk of a box Chevy or Delta 88.

The best thing, if mounting several things, is to build an amp rack to fit behind the back seat. Measure and use 3/4" or 1/2" MDF or plywood to make the rack. Cover it with carpet or vinyl and mount everything nicely. Keep the cap as close as possible to the amp you want it to be most effective on.

You can drill holes through the board by the connections and pass the wires through to conceal all the wiring.

2007-09-02 15:39:52 by mrlikemthick

Price: $180.00 $82.61

2 Channel bridgeable to 1 Channel
High Powered Car Amplifier
2 x 400 @ 4 OHMS, 2 x 800 @ 2 OHMS - 1 x 1600 WATTS @ 4 OHMS
Blue Illumination Ring

Is there a way I can sort of "re-boot" my car audio system? My amplifier shut down (Autotek MX1500.1), and now whatever amp I try and hook up doesn't play? So what could it be? Should I just straight wire my power wire?

serious wiring trouble now and down the road. an autotek amp seems to be a powerful amp but also the way the woofers are wired up could be the problem. take one of the speakers loose and see if the music will player. if so, do the same to the other speaker. it should only play for a little while and then shut the amp down to protection. after finding out this is your problem, change the wiring completely. matter of fact, change the wire itself. a lower gauge wire might also help to bring home the power. there is no way to reboot an amp. upgrade maybe. let do the math: 1Autotek amp 1500.1+4Audiofonic 12" woofers= drain for the amp. Autotek 1500.1amp+4audiofonic woofers+yellowtop battery=*POWER* experience pays

2007-03-23 19:12:53 by mrlikemthick

My power wire is hot, my radio works, my ground is fine, and my fusues are replaced. Are they're any steps that I'm missing in checking out what the problem is to why my amp isn't working? My amplifier is an Autotek MX 1500.1 and is wired to four Audiofonic twelves (DVC; ADF-272's).

check that the grouns is good and the metal where you mount the ground is clear and clean

2007-03-20 07:49:11 by mrlikemthick