Sound Around Car Audio Amplifiers

Car Audio Amplifiers


Lanzar LQ44 Contaq 4 Gauge Power Cable and In-Line Fuse Kit
(Electronics) Sound Around

4 Gauge Terminal Ring
20ft 4 Gauge Red Power Cable
AGU In-Line Fuse Holder
60 Amp AGU Fuse


Price: $44.99

Car Audio Amplifiers Answers

Where should I buy my car amp wiring kit?
Garmin GPS

I got a JL Audio 300/4 with four speakers 75W rms. Should I get a name brand wiring kit or are the cheap ones on eBay just as good?


I bought my wiring on ebay and have no problems
the brand of power wire isn't critical as long as you are using a sufficient gauge. I use Voodoo and I am happy with it.
Use a fused 8 gauge cable for the one amp or a 4 gauge if you plan to add a sub in the future
RCAs are important, you should get a reputable brand (I chose Monster) and run the wires on the opposite side of the car that the power wires run to minimize interference. Twisted pair helps reduce noise but costs more.
Speaker wire should be at least 16 gauge for 75 watts RMS

Car Audio : Car Audio Amplifier Installation Tips


In order to install a car amplifier, the required materials are a power wire, a ground wire, a remote wire and an RCA signal. Locate the factory ...

this is a quesrtion about car amp wiring.?
stereo

i wanna put my old system into my new car but these installation people said it'd probably be better just to get a new amp wiring kit cause the wires are copper and they oxodize and stuff. but my stuff is only like 6-10 months old. should i listen to them and just buy new wiring or no?


if you want to take the time to re-use the old stuff, go for it as long as it is long enough to fit in your new vehicle. sounds like they just want to make a few extra bucks.

Boss KIT-2 Complete 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit
Boss Audio Car Audio Amplifiers

Price: $28.00

Twenty 4-inch wire ties
Competition high-quality fuse holder
Ring terminals: #10, 0.25-inch, 0.31-inch
8 gauge amplifier installation kit
Many feet of wire and cable: red power, black ground, blue turn-on, speaker wire

Car amp wiring options?

I have a single JL Audio 300W RMS sub and a Kenwood 300W RMS monoblock amp (KAC-8104D).
The manual of the amp says I can wire the car 2 different ways:
- Standard way of RCA and trigger cables from headunit to boot.
- It has input points that would come from your rear speakers, which hijack the signal and turn the amp on - much easier to do.

What do people recommend and why? Pros and cons of each??


Here is the pros and cons.

The "trigger" and RCA cables would get the best sound but are a little harder to install and can only be done with an aftermarket stereo and will require pulling out stereo which isnt too bad with the right tools.

"Hijacking" would be easier and you can use with factory stereo...(which if you have a vehicle with a warranty you might think about keeping.)But if you use this method it will not turn the amp on when the radio comes on so you would have to run a wire from an ignition running wire somewhere maybe the wire to the cigarette lighter. I have seen but don't recommend wire ran from fuse box.

Pyramid PB717X 1,000-Watt 2-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier
Sound Around Car Audio Amplifiers

Price: $135.99

MOSFET Pulse Width Modulated Power Supply
Built-In Variable Low/High/Subwoofer Crossover
1000 Watts Total System Power Output
High/Low Level Input
2 Ohm Stereo Stable

Is it worth wiring car speakers through an amp?

Hi all. I have a 300 Watt amp connected to my sub in my trunk. I am now going to upgrade my car speakers. Is it worth re-routing the speaker wires back to the trunk, through the amp, and back up front? How much work would it require?


If you buy a nice 4 channel amp, and hook it to your factory speakers it will sound great. If you hook it up to aftermarket speakers, it will sound way better.
Its really simple to hook it up. All you need to do is run wires from the trunk to behind the deck as you did your RCA cables. Then you make the connection behind the dash as you did from the deck to the speakers originally. Obviously you would cut the wires from the deck to the factory wires and cap them off to prevent a short.

car amp wiring help?

ok, im trying to run a small car amp off an old 12v pc power supply. the only part im having trouble with is how to acivate the remote trigger to turn on the amp.

can someone help me please??

thanks
i tried that already

its a pretty tiny amp. like 150 ish rms or so i think


Normally The wire that turns on the amp comes from the Deck.

If you do not have one, Run a small wire to it from the battery with a fuse (prolly a 5 or a 10), and install a switch in the wire to turn the amp on and off.


  • Buy Cheap Car Audio Amplifiers

  • Car amplifier light is blinking, making popping noise. No sound ...

    I have a Kenwood KAC-9104D amplifier hooked up to my 12″ Lanzar MaxP124D (don’t give me crap about my sub, I’ve heard enough already…). I use 4 gauge wiring to hook it all up. The power wire has a 60 amp fuse in it, while the amplifier has two 30 amp fuses in it. The amp is mono that can safely handle a 1 ohm load. The sub is a dual voice coil and it natively runs at 4 ohms, so I hooked it up in parallel to run at 2 ohms (so the amp is ok with the 2 ohm load). The problem is that when I turn on the car the amp turns on and I’m getting the power lights on and everything, but when music starts to play, the power light blinks every 1 or 2 seconds and makes a popping sound. And I’m not getting any power to the sub (I just don’t think there’s enough time for the amp to get any power to the sub before it blinks again). I used a volt-meter to measure all connections and fuses. The fuse on the power wire is getting 13.5ish volts, the power and ground on the amp are getting the same. When I put the positive on the ground and negative on the remote-on, I get about 12 volts. But when I put the positive on the power/battery wire and the negative on the remote-on I’m only getting about 1 volt. It should be getting 12ish, right? I checked all fuses and the ground looks fine. Remote-on looks ok in the head unit. So I really don’t know what the problem is unless my amp is just fried. I don’t see how that’s possible because I just bought it about a month ago. I used to have 8 gauge wiring and worked fine. But it used a 30 amp fuse in the power wire and it would always blow the fuse when I put the volume past 17 (which is about as high as I would want it anyway). So I switched to 4 gauge, and now I’m getting this problem. Anyone have any ideas? I checked the ground. It’s getting the right amount of voltage. What about the remote-on? It’s only getting a reading of 1 volt. Is that normal? georgewillings: How do I know if I hooked up the remote wire to the antenna lead? And if it is indeed hooked up to that, what wire should I hook it up to instead? Well when I put the positive needle of the voltmeter on the power connection port on the amp and the negative needle on the ground port, I get about 12-13 volts. And the ground is connected to bare medal. I already used the sandpaper method to do it. And why shouldn’t I put it on the remote wire? All that happens is I get a negative reading instead of positive. No harm in that it seems like…

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