car battery isolator

I want to set it up so it will charge 2 batteries in my car.
How would i set it up?
How many amp isolator should it be?
What kind?

There are commercial isolators that are available at most auto shops. These are designed to handle starting loads so the Amp issue should be moot.

In general there are four wires. Three heavy cable connections for a common ground and leads to each of the positive battery terminals.

A fourth wire prob. about 14 or 12 gauge wire goes to the ignition. When the key is on, power is drawn from (and to) both batteries. WHen the key is off, only your accessory battery is connected.

A commercial relay will come with the instructions for hookup
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2008-10-27 15:20:54 by Brendon G

2005 Malibu Maxx LS = *Alternator: Stock 115A *Battery Isolator: Noco IGD-140HP *Battery 1: Optima Red Top (Group 35) - Engine Only (Maybe Video + ...

Car audio battery is a kinetik 800 model. there isn't a performance alternator for my car. i have a directed amp 1200 going to two 12in mtx 5500 series in a slegde hammer box.

You really do.
Unless both batteries are identical, one will pull the other one down.

You need a high amp relay like stinger's sr-80 or sr-200 depending on the current your system. With 1200 watts the sr-80 should work fine.

2007-11-04 07:16:29 by James R

Price: $109.16

120-amps rated
Prevents the problem of multi-battery drain
Prevents power being drained from the battery required for starting the engine

I have a 2000 Crown Victoria LX Which has a 130/135 Amp alternator. I am not 100% sure about the amps on the alternator but i do know for sure the car does not have the police package. I am looking to upgrade my system but dont want to use the original car battery for that so i am planning on running a secound battery. But i want to make sure i use the right isolator.

It should not make any difference about the isolator and alternator, the isolator is heavy enough to take the discharge of the battery which is about 700 amps. The diodes prevent one battery from back feed from the other so only one will get used.
Hope this makes sense.

2008-03-25 08:43:47 by Carlos D

I have a 800 amp Xstatic car audio battery that i bought to power my car system, i have a 4000 watt Audiobahn amp pushing 2 15" Alpine Type Rs, what should I be looking at when purchasing a Battery Isolator?

i have always ran multiple battery set ups and have never used an isolator...it not 100% necessary. i want my system to use both batteries....

and no...don't get a cap...ever!

always upgrade your electrical system in this order:
1. the big 3
2. a good battery (optima or kinetik)
3. HO alt (if needed)
4. add more batteries (if still needed)
if you notice serious car audio competitors will never use a cap. they use racks of batteries for a reason. besides, for what you spend on a cap, you can easily spend it on upgrading properly. a cap will supply only short bursts of power to your amps. batteries and a good alt. will provide a constant supply to your entire car. also, a cap is useless unless you upgrade your big 3, a good battery and alt. anyways….adding an electrical component to an already struggling electrical system will only make matters worse. if you want to do some research, you can do a search here: http://www.caraudio.com/forum.

2008-11-03 21:21:18 by Joe D

I am installing a car audio system very soon and I am purchasing items as I go. When it came to adding another battery due to the wattage of the system that I am installing I forgot how they should be wired. I have done this before and since I dont have the batteries in front of me at the moment I thought that I would post this. In other words should they be wired in series or parallel and what is the real purpose of the isolator in a dual battery system.

Running a second battery is never a good idea as it's
just an added strain on the alternator. A cap is only
good so far as the audio system isn't trying to pull
too much from the electrical system.

I know a cap can be beneficial as I'm running one and
I measured a definite change in my electrical systems
response curve to big bass hits with an oscilloscope,
however, this won't be the case for ALL vehicles.

If your total system power is more than 1000 watts RMS
you will need to:

1. Upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator
2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep cycle battery
3. Upgrade the "Big 3" - that is to replace the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis with at least 1/0 AWG wire.

Failure to do this will result in you replacing them
anyway as the alternator will eventually fail.

Here is a guide that will calculate what size
alternator and power wires you need
http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php ?file=6d26c621

You'll need Microsft Excel to use it.

See my site for more info http://spkrbox1.spaces.live.com

2007-04-13 19:44:48 by Pitbull25503