sony 6 inches 4 way speakers

If I get these speakers for my car, do I need an amp?
I'm running a Sony CDX-GT320 at 52W x 4 as the head unit.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp? skuId=8759122&st=KAPPA62.9I&lp=1 &type=product&cp=1&id=120265 0463632

If I don't need one, do you think these will sound good and give some punch with the bass with only 52W max per speaker?
I'd be mounting these into the rear deck of my Corolla.

No, the head unit does not put enough watts RMS to adequately power these speakers for good bass.

The speakers are 75 watts RMS and the head unit is 52. That means that you will only have 60% of the power those speakers need to drive them and they need it to make bass.

If you do not want/ can't afford a sub, you need to give those speakers all the power you can to get them to make bass. + Dynamat really helps (I have it in all my doors)

Think of your amp and speakers like an engine in a car. If you don't have very much power, you can still drive around but it will be slow and ponderous (like my dad's old Saturn)
But if you have a hemi, well hot dang that thing is gonna go like stink.

I actually overpower my 75watt RMS Polk Audio db 6.5" by 25% from a JL Audio 300/4 amp I bought for $150 off of ebay (still works great 2 years later) and they have enough bass that I don't really need a sub right now.

However, if you do choose to overpower your speakers, don't turn it up all the way (both the gain on the amp and your head unit) and tune the amp to cutout the lowest bass (from say 100Hz and lower)

These two things will help you get the most bass from your system as you possibly can, while prolonging the life of your system.

2009-07-01 11:42:37 by Josh

Welcome to Dakmart.COM. You are looking at the Sony Xplod Xsr-1642 / Xsr1642 6.5 Inch 4-Way 250 Watt Car Speaker(s) Some details on this item ...

i have 2 amps running my system that i pieced together my-self.1 x-plore x-over for my sub 12"infinity, and 1 v-power alpine 4/3/2 channel amp mrp f200 for my fronts and backs. i get a high piched tone from my fronts at times then back to regular sound at others. nothing particular as music goes just happens. the people that installed it said they dont know y.now my sub wires r also connected to my alpine as well as th x-plore and have no control either way for the sub from the alpine. now i have no distortion until my sub realy kicks in and im at a volume of 28 or above my max is 34.thats for my fronts tho. my rear speakers are fine and there duals from target as were my fronts are sony explodes 6 inch. i wanna get my fronts crystal clear as my backs r and now it can be done cause they come in clear during my in and out fases. the people that hook them up suck !!! plz help me figure it out even if it means i have to reconnect every thing in the car!!!!

Do you get the sound only if the engine is running? or is it just random. I'm thinking it could be an alternator whine that your hearing. How is the alpine grounded? to the chassis or the - side of the Battery?

If I were you I would run it like this:

Alpine amp in 4 mode---->to all seperates (front and rear)
Other amp--------------->to sub only
Crossover (4 channel)---->to Alpine4's input signals (rca's)
Head unit--------------->Rca's to crossover for mids and highs and directly to the Sub amp in the back for lows.

Be sure to run your power wires on the opposite side of your car from your RCA lines to avoid interference (ex: power and ground on drivers side and rca's on Pass side).
You should tune your system to just sounding clean (not bass heavy)with all of the head units and crossovers levels set at no gain (neutral).

Pick a boring CD with good acoustics (ie:"Green Day") and tweak the crossover and the gain on the Alpine until it sounds good (clean). Then leave the crossover and Alpine alone. Then go back to your sub amp and turn to gain to 3/4 max and leave it alone. Now you should be able to cruise and adjust anything you dont like or want more of (Bass)directly from your headunit without ever having to touch the amps again.

You did'nt say if you have a Stock or aftermarket Head unit, to run that much equipment effectively you definatly need to get a aftermarket one. This way your head unit will be able to filter the sub for you and you wont need a seperate crossover for the sub amp.

2006-02-21 09:31:40 by evol1kiss

Price: $119.95 $49.95

Frequency Response: 28-25,000 Hz
Highly Oriented Polyolefine (HOP) cone with santoprene surround
6 x 9-inch coaxial three-way speaker with 400 Watts peak power
2-1/2-inch HDLD midrange drivers and 1-inch polyetherimide (PEI) dome tweeters
In-line crossovers for maximum detail and efficiency

Ok now ive givin this a lot of thought but i i have

1x15 inch 1500 watt max fusion subwoofer in a ported enclosure
800wx1 max @ 4 ohms Fusion Powerplant amplifier (Sub)
250 watts x2 @ 4ohms (For the Components)
Rear - 3 Way JBL 300 watt max component speakers
Rear - 2 JBL 6x9 500 watt max
Front - 2 Sony XPLOD 6.5 inch 2 way speakers
(6x9 and 6 inch fronts powered off a)
Sony CD DVD MP3 unit 52wx4

I have no screens in this but was thinking about having a buttkicker shaker in with the subwoofer and being able to control the level of the sub and buttkicker i have seen them on the website and they do exsist for cars but yeah has anyone ever heard a buttkicker, whats it like and shouldi upgrade to one

cheers

well i had one but i got tired of it so i gave it away cuz i mean whats the point if you aint got the deep sound now if you have a more powerful sub and amp you wont need it

2007-10-19 16:50:58 by ashley j

Price: $99.95

4-way speaker system
PEI dome tweeters
Balanced PEI dome mid-range

I have a 99 Corolla CE. I have put in 4 Sony Xplod 6.5 inch 250 watt speakers all around, future mods are a new sony xplod 208 watt head unit, 400 watt 2 channel amp, and 10 inch sony xplod sub. What do you think? Is this good? Do you like it or would you change it around, and if so what? Let me know how sony head units sound and if I should go for something else, as far as head unit i'm going for a price range of under 150$
yea i'm either getting the sony 10 inch sub, or these 2 kickers my friend is going to see if he can hook me up with. And it turns out the amp is 4 channel not 2

actually Sony isnt a good brand. most newbs think it is, cause there so popular with home audio, and of corse the ps3.

your 4 6.5s will sound better then stock. but not that much better. if you dont want to get rid of them, then the next best thing is to buy a 50x4 watt amp, and amp them. i wouldnt go any higher then 50 watts to each speaker. please dont think that you cant throw 250 watts at them, cause you'll end up blowing them. trust me.

as far as your 2 channel 400 watt amp. whats that for? scratch that.

if you have your heart set on a 10" sony woofer then get one. when you amp it just make sure your amp puts out the same rms that your sub calls for. dont go by peak numbers those are wrong. also be sure to match the resistance, meaning ohms. so if your woofer is calling for 200 watts at 4 ohms, then get an amp that puts out 200 watts at 4 ohms.

last but not least the headunit. i personally dont like sonys, cause my experiance with them, through friends, is that they dont really last long. so reliabillity is an issue. there features and prices are good though. i personally like Pioneer. more specifically i like Pioneer Premier. i'd check out this unit at a local car audio shop, before you go with the sony.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17793

good luck

2008-01-22 08:22:31 by Karen A

Toyota Tacoma 97 Extra Cab

Vr3 stereo "VRCD400-SDU"
front speakers sony Xploid 45 w rated power, 4 way "xs-r1641"
back speakers dual illuminite "TS" 50 w rated power, 3 way
size on speakers 6.5 inch
+small amp radio antena "amp wire is not connected"
speakers are in same place as old speakers, back speakers use stock wiring exept for lighting, front ones have new speaker wire.
Ok
so my front right speaker "doesnt work" anymore, i tested it at home on stereo and it worked fine, what happens is, when i connect it no sound comes out of speakers when, i connect it when everything is on and playing u can only hear low cracking static sound from it, WHY?
Also when i switch to radio my clock dies??
and my back right speaker pops when u turn on or off the car, but its connected same as left one??

It sounds as if either the speaker cable has a split in it and it is touching on metal somewhere or when you bolt the speaker in place, the terminals are touching on the door somewhere and causing the speaker to short out.

Its shorting out somewhere, so I would be tracing my wiring and finding the break, or where something is touching on metal.

2009-01-28 19:10:59 by Artem S