Car Speakers
Pyle Pro PPHP1559 700 Watt 15" Inch 2-Way PA Speaker
(Electronics) Pyle 2009-08-24
Release date: 2009-08-24
Full 1 Year Manufacturer's Warranty
350 Watts RMS to 700 Watts Power Handling
Powder-Coated Steel Grille Recessed Carrying Handle
Flyable, Stackable, and Stand Mountable (35mm Pole Socket)
Wedge Shaped Molded ABS Nylon Stackable Cabinets
Price:
$307.99
$170.68
Car Speakers Answers
i need a replacement for my 15 inch 600 watt pa speakers will a 15inch 600watt car speaker be the same and what about a 15 inch 600watt guitar amp speaker will that work also?
600 watt is 600 watt BUT
pa speakers = 8 Ohm to 36 Ohm
car speaker = 1 Ohm to 10 Ohm
guitar amp speaker = 8 Ohm to 16 Ohm
you need to pull the speaker out and see what it says on the back
and go with that or better to get your speaker rebuilt
Couldn#39;t believe this. They were left for a long time in the back of someone#39;s pickup at my college in the rain so on Day 3 I took them ...
Ive blown 2 speakers and I need to replace them. One was for a peavey 1x15 cab and the other for a no name 1x15 cab. What types of 15" speakers are compatible? I found these ones that are 300 watt rms and 8 ohms. I suppose different wattages can go into these cabs than the originals right?
Its a peavey mark vi amplifier, runs 250 watts at 4 ohms and 400 at 2. I was running at 8 ohms with a 150 watt handling rms speaker that was no name.
Hey....
First: RMS (Root Mean Square) is defined as the square root of the time average of the SQUARE of instantaneous power. Basically, RMS power is MEANINGLESS. It has no technical significance. It does not measure heating power.Sine wave cycles is how wattage is properly measured, and over LONG periods of time, not the square root of a square of time. One big difference between the two: Over long periods of time, the heating power of an amplifier is measured.
A common misconception is that "watts" is how loud something gets. That is totally incorrect. Example: Light bulbs come in watts, but most think watts is what makes it brighter. Its lumens actually that measure how bright a light bulb is. Micro-wave ovens is another example. 800 watt ovens dont put out 120 decibals of volume. Its heat that is being measured.
Now.. on to your dilemma. lol...You said you have blown 2 speakers. What is the source that these speakers was hooked up to, and, how do you know that it is functioning properly? You dont list what brand of speakers they were, other than they were 15's. I have a "no name" cab that has JBL 15's in them, and am confident of my power source. If anything, underpowering speakers will cause more harm than overpowering them. The JBL's have a peak rating of 1200 watts, and im powering them with a QSC 5050 power amp. My load is 8 ohms to the power amp, and it delivers 3200 watts. By the way.. I dont use this bass rig on small bar stages!
Might consider editing this post with what you are using to power the speakers, and, what particular speakers and models that were blown.
EDIT: I remember that bass head. What a beast! Built in chorus was kinda nice on that too. Ok.... couple things could have come into play with blowing speakers. The input gain (pre) could have been driven to hard, while the master gain (post) was hardly up. As a rule of thumb, I run on all my bass rigs the master or post at TEN! Alot of times people will turn up the preamp to much, the volume not enough. What winds up happening is the input is clipped, a distorted signal then winds up going to the main power, which then is sent to the speakers. Another scenario is this: If that amp has Hi and Low inputs, and your bass has active eq, (9 volt battery) you should be plugging into the low input. That input is reduced by usually 6db to compensate for the hotter pickups and eq on basses. You CAN plug into the high input with an active bass, but you have to know a thing or two about gain structure to prevent things blowing up!
Wouldnt hurt to be on the safe side to have a tech look at the amp, assuming none of the above apply. A couple of good 15" bass speakers worth checking out that will stand up to a good beating is Eminence, Black Widow, JBL, (my favorite) and Electro Voice.
Hope this has helped,and good luck!
I just bought a Radioshack 15-inch speaker rated at 150watt RMS range 35hz - 18khz. I am using my soundcard to limit output directed to it to 0hz-65hz IE designating it as a sub-woofer. I know it can handle 150watts RMS distributed between 35hz-18khz, but what fraction of 150watts can it concentrate between 0hz-65hz without damaging the speaker?
It'll start distorting the sound below 35 Hz.
There are a lot of other things that come into play apart from just the watts. Damage will come later. First it'll be poor sound quality.
Price:
$399.00
Too low to display
Two JBL 15 in LF Drivers with a 64 mm (2.5 in) Edge Wound Ribbon Voice Coisl - for greater efficiency and Power handling
JBL advanced Crossover Network for sound shaping and SonicGuard(TM) protects the HF driver from excesses
Tough acoustically Superior enclosure constructed using 19mm MDF for improved LF performance
Dual-angle Pole-Mount Socket Allows the Speaker to Tilt 10°for More Uniform Audience Coverage.
Ferro-fluid Cooled Compression Driver with Titanium diaphragm improves HF performance
The PA amp's brand is Grommes Precision Electronics, model PST60. Its output is a single 60 watts RMS. Two homemade "PA speakers", with full-range 15-inch drivers that seem to have been made for guitar amplification (specs unknown but they look at least 30 years old), are connected in parallel to the amp. These speakers sound lousy while projecting voice (though they sound okay projecting acoustic guitar music, which makes me think they are guitar amp drivers), so I'm thinking of getting a smaller pair of actual modern PA speakers.
The impedance load for the PA amp is rated at 4 - 8 ohms (I imagine using two speakers wired in parallel vs. using one speaker, correct?). If I bought two PA speakers whose impedance are 8 ohms, would the in-parallel 4 ohm load be okay? This drop in impedance would cause the wattage of the amp to increase by how much?
I'm considering two Radio Shack 10" PA cabs, with an RMS rating of 75 watts/160 watts peak.
Thanks in advance for any help!
James T.
Lowering the impedance to half will increase the output by 3 dB. (this comes at the cost of a little more distortion).
Also keep in mind that not all speakers are created equal, as some are more efficient than others, so if you are replacing a single more efficient driver with two less efficient ones, you may not notice any difference, other than some added distortion. If the cabinets are smaller, its probable they are less efficient. (Most speakers have an efficiency rating i.e. 88dB, so you can use that for comparison).
Buy from some place with a liberal return policy, and try it out. You can always bring them back if you don't like the sound.
I am a wedding DJ and wanted to add a 2nd set of speakers. My friend has some speakers that are 200 watt max. I have a 3000 watt 4 channel amp so I wanted to swap the 15 inch sub-woofers in those speakers with some 800 watt max subs. I am wondering if replacing the sub woofers is all I need to do to get them to handle the power I want to throw at them? I don't know what other parts go into the inner workings of a speaker so I don't know if they are regulated by wattage as well? There are no tweeters, highs, mids, or any other speakers besides the one 15 inch sub in each. I am hooking them to my amp with decent speaker wire and banana plugs. Any DJs or home audio folks ever swap the subs in some big pa speakers and can tell me if it worked out?
Should work
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