35 inch car speakers

These are what i have in mind, or if you got something else which will be better please tell me :)


1. SONY XSGTX1640 6" 4 WAY 300 WATTS
PRICE: $109.00

Features:
6-1/2 inch Full Range 4-Way In-Car Speaker
* 6-1/2" HOP Woofer Cone
* 1-1/2" HDLD Balanced Diaphram Midrange
* 3/4" Piezo Dome Tweeter
* 1/2" Piezo Dome S-Tweeter
* 300W Peak Power (75W RMS)
Specifications:
* Speaker System : 4-Way Coaxial
* Peak Power (W) : 300
* Rated Power (W) : 75
* Frequency Response (Hz) : 30-28kHz
* Sensitivity 1W/1M (db) : 91dB

2. Polk DB 6"2 way, with 6.5" Cone 180W
PRICE: $159.00

Specifications:
* Power Handling : 180 Watts Peak
* Power Handling : 60 Watts RMS
* Frequency Response : 35Hz-22kHz
* Sensitivity : 92dB
* Impedance : 4 Ohms

3. Kicker 07DS6002 6" Component Speaker System
PRICE: $197.00

Specifications
* Woofer (in., cm) : 6", 16.0
* Tweeter (in., cm) : 3/4", 2.0
* Max Rec Amp Power (watts PEAK/RMS) : 120/60
* Frequency Response (Hz) : 35-21 K
* Woofer Mounting Depth (in., cm) : 1-7/8", 4.8
* Tweeter Mounting Depth (in., cm) : 9/16", 1.4

4. Option Audio 6.5" Component Splits 200watt
PRICE: $199.00

Specifications
* Frequency Response: 60 Hz - 22 kHz
* Max. power handling (Watts): 160W
* Nominal power handling (Watts): 80W
* Sensitivity (2.8 V/1m): 91 dB
* Magnet: 85mm
* Woofer: 165mm
live in darwin NT aus

of those would do the kicker's.
also what country are you in? because if that is American money those prices are very very high. those kickers can be bought for less than $80 online.

2009-10-01 04:19:22 by Michael

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I am looking to replace my speakers in my car, and I'm pretty sure I'd like to get these:
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-6-5-Inc h-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/tech-data/B000P0PF 9G/ref=de_a_smtd

However, on one site, it was recommended I go with slim mount, so I found these: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-6-5-Inc h-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/tech-data/B000P0PF 9G/ref=de_a_smtd

Do I need to spend the extra $15? the only differences I found was top mount depth, a reduction of power handling by 15 watts (from 180 to 165) and the frequency response is 50 Hz-22kHz as opposed to the 35 Hz-22kHz. I know what the frequency is literally, but am I going to hear a big difference? what about the power difference?

Also,I keep getting mixed answers about my rear speakers. Some say 6.5 inch some say 6x9. When I look, they appear oval, and about 6x9, which is why I began to doubt all theplaces that say 6.5. Anyone have a 95 accord lx and know the size?

also, please explain wire harnesses? is this something i need or do the speakers come with it?

All your answers are at Crutchfield.They will tell you what your car takes and what they have that bolts right in.6x9 in the rear and 6 1/2" round in the doors.I went "Polk Audio" in the back and "Pioneers" in the doors.A Phillips screwdriver does most of the work.Be prepared to run more substantial wiring than Honda installed.The OEM wiring is single strand,solid core copper,like telephone wire.This will not support any big power at all.Solder 14G multistrand to your speakers before you install and work back to the Radio,ONE at a TIME.

2009-12-07 00:24:05 by StAn

Price: $119.95

Tweeter level adjustment and swivel positioning for optimizing sound and stereo image
6-1/2-inch two-way loudspeaker with 180 Watts peak power handling and 2 Ohm impedance
Edge-driven textile dome tweeters for increased power handling and reduced distortion at high output levels
One-year warranty
Plus One woofer cones and durable rubber surrounds for increased bass output and higher efficiency

I have 2 Kenwood Excelon KFC-170's running off of a Pioneer DEH-P6800MP head unit that puts out 22 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels. The speakers can handle 2-40 watts RMS (200 watts peak power) with a frequency response of 35-25,000 Hz.

I've had bad experiences with car audio before and don't know too much. I just want everything to sound the best it can. Should I get a low powered amp for the front speakers and if so how powerful? Would I blow them if I did?

Please lend advice. I have 2 JL Vr's in the rear deck and they're powered by a 2x200 channel amp that sounds great, plus an eight inch Bazooka tube in the trunk for just a little bit more bass. The fronts just sound like they're missing something. Could also be the difference between the Kenwoods and the JL XR's that I blew.

What should I do? Thanks.

Your Kenwood's are never going to sound nearly as good as your JL's. But yes, you should definitely amplify them. You say that you have a 2x200 pushing a single set of VR's? Well, the VR's don't have anywhere near that kind of power handling(60watts RMS) so you must be using one of those crappy knock off brands like Audiobahn, Boss, Rockwood, Pyramid or something like that(these brands always advertise big power that they couldn't provide if they were struck by lightening). Any of that junk seriously puts the rest of your equipment at risk. My advice to you is to buy a JL 300/4. This is a 75watt X 4 channel amp. I have been using that very amp in 3 different cars since 2001 and I've never had any trouble at all. This way you can stick to using one amp instead of adding another, and JL amps always produce more power than they are rated to give so just turn the gain down to about half way on the Kenwoods and they'll sound MUCH better than they do now. Enjoy.

2006-11-25 21:26:39 by wsdmskr825

Price: $51.99

1" neodymium film dome midrange
Includes grills, wires and mounting hardware
1" high temperature ASV voice coil
3/4 piezo tweeter

I have a 1997 Cadallic Deville with a Kenwood KDC-X493 head unit with Pioneer Premier Speakers all the way around, 3 Memphis 10 inch subwoofers, Kenwood Mono Amplifier 1800 watt, Kenwood 4 channel amplifier 600 watt, and a 12 farad cap. I had it professionally installed and when I first got the car back the subs would go off by themselves at high volumes, so I turned down the sub power from my head unit, I was at 15 and went down to 5. Everything was working fine until these past couple of days, my subs would go out at 5 when the volume for the system was at 35, so I turned it down to 30. Then I kept losing my subs at 30 and now my subs won't come on anymore. I still have all the highs, which sound great but no lows from the subs. Do you think I blew all 3 subs, I still have the whole package under warranty but I want to prevent this from happening again. Please advise. By the way my amp to the subs still works because I still see the lights flashing and what the hell is a farad cap.

The prob is KENWOOD-it is complete sh!t


your subs are toast

2010-01-26 17:16:21 by Brad

I have a 2003 z71 4x4 silverado (light pewter) Extended cab, its got a aftermarket Billet grill, it has k&n cold-air intake kit, with a flowmaster exhaust system, custom Genuine car leather (chevy emblems embroided in the head rests, and z71 offroad emblems embroided in the door panels), I have a 5 inch pro-comp lift kit on it, 35 inch nitto tires, with 18 inch moto metal black with chrome insert rims, I have a sound system in my truck 4 aftermarket speakers and a subwoofer 10" all worth around 1000$, it has a Black and Stainless steel bull bar on it, also Mfab steps. The truck is a 2003 and has 93k miles. I bought it used with 67k and 4.8L v8. anyone have a clue I put about 8-9k into it. I just wanna know an estimate. Or does anyone know how I can find out.

http://www.nadaguides.com/home.aspx?LI=1 -21-1-5006-502-502-50002&l=1&w=2 8&p=0&f=5000 This is a good site to find the base price of your truck.The problem is with the things you have added to your truck its going to be really hard to get a price on line.You local GM dealer could give you a good idea what your truck is worth.Best of luck.

2009-09-24 19:07:09 by Geoff