Audio Speakers Design

When I press mute on my TV remote, the sound from the television stops, but my other speakers still have sound coming out. I want it so when I press mute, there is no sound at all. I have a Grundig TV (it's an analog) and my speakers are designed for a computer, so there's no remote for it.

Only way to do it is if your tv has a line level(rca) audio output and you hook up your computer speakers input to that with an adaptor. That is assuming that you mean you have powered computer speakers.The tv has to have a variable rca output. Some tvs like my Sony have a fixed/variable output that can be switched in the tv's menu. You have to set it to variable. Then just turn up the computer speakers more or less about 75% volume and now you can just use your tv remote to adjust volume or mute. You can adjust the volume on the computer speakers to fine tune the volume to match.

2009-04-14 21:04:22 by Lachlan

I may be wrong on a lot of this shit, but hey, I#39;ve never built a speaker nor do I claim to be a genius that knows everything about everything ...

I was looking for somone to help me design my car audio. I have a basic design i belive, but i need help modifying it to the best i can get. I will have the names of everything in here, they can be found on Crutchfield.com under these names.
Subs - Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 = I want these to play 18-200
Midbass - Kicker SSMB8 - Want these in kick pannels play 180 - 500
Door Speakers - Polk Audio db6500 - High end 480- 8000 for the woofer, and then 7980 - 20k for tweets.
Back Speakers - Don't matter.

Now i need Idea's for amps and cross-overs to get for the gear above, or any other suggestions on what to get for gear.

I have the Infinity Ref. 611a for the subs.
MTX Thunder 3404 - can't be found on crutchfield - for the 2 doors and 2 back speakers

and i was thinking kicker ZX 300.1 for the midbass in the kick pannels. will this gear be able to meet my goals? or how to some of you people have your systems set up?

Yeah, you seem to have a good understanding about how to accomplish good sound. But first, I want to address your crossover points. They shouldn't overlap like you have expressed. There should be somewhat of a gap between each xover point. Most xover slopes are between 12-24dB per octave. With your design, the frequency respones is going to spike at these xover points, which you will just have to reduce with an eq.

Try to keep a span of about 1/4 to 1/3 octave, dictated by the slope of the xover. Here would be a "normal" seperation point for the equipment you have listed; Sub 18-80hz 18dB slope, MB 125-350hz 12db slope, mids 400-4k hz 12db slope, tweets 4.6-20khz 12db slope.

The higher the slope the closer the xover points should be. 200hz lowpass for the sub is way too high. It will be bass in the rear only, with no sense of frontal imaging.. Bass notes are omnidirectional, but anything past 100 hz is not.

Crossover and EQs, Make sure they are versitle!!! Adjustable slope and infintiely varible on the x over points. Multiple inputs and outputs are going to be neccessary for your set-up. Look for a good signal to noise ratio. Parametric EQ are the most versitle, but are often hard to tune correctly. 31 band EQs allow it to be highly adjustable and are quite easy to tune.

FYI, I would rethink the Infinity amp for the subs. The are not a real powerhouse of an amp. MTX or Kicker would be better amps for the subs. Excellent job on the selection of speakers. Those Kicker MBs are wonderful!

Email me if you have any more Q's or just need some advice. You seem to design like I do.

2007-03-19 11:49:33 by Larry G

Price: $54.99

Acoustic balanced wood cabinet subwoofer
2-inch magnetically shielded satellite speakers; 5.25-inch subwoofer
Desktop control pod controls power, volume, and bass, and has headphone jack and auxiliary input
Three-piece speaker system with two satellite speakers and subwoofer
MP3 cradle

I know that I can just "listen and be able to tell" but I'm wondering if there is any technical audio design reason(s) why a cabinet speaker should not be placed on the floor, especially if it's a taller-than average speaker (not a cube speaker). Thanks!

The idea is actually very simple...You want the TWEETERS of the speakers at EAR level (of your listening position)...Very few people actually sit and listen to music these days so it doesn't matter...But for movies and what not, where you're planted on the couch, you'd want those tweeters at ear level.

2007-02-27 12:17:18 by suiy_wcs13

Price: $59.95 $41.98

Ultra portable design.
Digital USB powered speakers.
No external power supply, USB plug and play.
Crystal clear and dynamic sound.

we are remodeling the home, and want to take the opportunity to add speakers, and connect all tv's to a system that will allow us to connect to our computer, radio and cable.
Not a home theater, but at multiple locations the house.
Thx mariano

This is a very advanced topic - too advanced for Yahoo answers.

I will say that you are looking at a "whole house" audio system and the control system for these can run thousands of dollars to install, and then you have speakers, receivers etc. on top of that.

Make a list of all the features you want - in order of importance. Then consult a company that installs these and get prices for each. You may have to trim back some things.

2007-12-02 08:51:20 by albufera1

i own a 5.1 logitech speaker system.... with a old creative sound blaster live 8000. the surround speakers blew up and don't work anymore.... and sometimes i need to twist the green audio wire plugged to my sound card to get sound. What's causing this damage to my speakers + wires? is it the creative sound card?? thats out of date.... or is it my speakers that was poorly designed? i used them for a good 3 years .... http://www.techwarelabs.com/reviews/audi o/logitech_z640/images/843.gif and im planning on buying the Z-5500 tomorrow after xmas...... but im worried it might blow up with the same sound card??? should i just buy the new creative series X-Fi sound cards?

Just extra details (Optional to read):

this is my really old sound card: http://www.biocomp.net/sound_blaster.jpg

i dont wanna throw it away to waste, it makes my bass sound really clean and crisp... but i have a feeling its not worth teaming up with my z-5500.

Sounds like a bad connector or wiring to the connector if u have to twist the wires to make them work.

2007-12-25 10:52:59 by ROCKST?R?