Diy Audio Speakers

Please help.I am planing to diy a speaker box. However I find it difficult to cut the rounded side speaker hole that fits into the wood.Please advise what eqpt. to use or website for reference.Thank you.

You can use either a jig saw or router.... either one is fine

Good Luck

2007-05-12 09:51:44 by Anthony

www.etsy.com speakers i made from PVC pipes, each houses a 3quot; magnesium/aluminum alloy full range driver. frequency response is 85-20000. 3 ...

Please assist me. May i know what is the best material i.e. bitumin, rubber mat, etc..to prevent audio speaker box not sounded boxy.Please recommend.TQ.

Pollyfil is a sound absorption, dampening fiber that will deepen bass, provide cleaner midrange, tone down any unwanted reverberation and improve the dynamic extension of any speaker system.

It also helps eliminate standing waves, which is something like an echo inside the box. This will give you tighter and more accurate bass. It also helps to give a flatter frequency response to the overall sound, which is good. Besides this, it also helps reduce the vibration of the box, which results in less distortion. There is a big difference to the bass when you have an insulated box.

Damping also increases subwoofer efficiency by dissipating some energy that affects the sub, particularly the voice coil. It is advisable to put damping material inside a box. Pillow polyfill and fiberglass insulation are common, though polyfill is a lot easier on your skin. Polyfill also "tricks" a sub into thinking it is in a bigger box. Most sealed and vented enclosures require 1/2 lb. of dampening material per cubic foot of internal enclosure space. For best results it is recommended to loosely fill the material throughout the enclosure.

2007-05-13 00:48:49 by Anthony

Price: $119.95

Edge-driven textile dome tweeters for increased power handling and reduced distortion at high output levels
Plus One woofer cones and durable rubber surrounds for increased bass output and higher efficiency
6-1/2-inch two-way loudspeaker with 180 Watts peak power handling and 2 Ohm impedance
One-year warranty
Tweeter level adjustment and swivel positioning for optimizing sound and stereo image

Alright so im trying to make a little DIY speaker system for my room, and i bought two 8" no name subs and two 5.25" Slim speakers. they also come with four 350W tweeters for free, yes they are the cheapest speakers in the world but its what i can afford for now. i was wondering with that being said what is a good amp i should get (again cheap and from ebay prefferably) enough to power all four tweeters, two 8's, two speakers. if you could tell me what kind of amp i would need in terms of how much watts i need or if you could even save me the error and find one on ebay for me that would help me alot.

here are the subs:
http://cgi.ebay.com/PAIR-OF-8-DJ-CAR-HOM E-SUB-WOOFER-REPLACEMENT-SPEAKERS_W0QQit emZ360098835545QQihZ023QQcategoryZ3276QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Here are the speakers:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-60-WATT-5-25-SLI M-CAR-AUDIO-STEREO-SPEAKERS-TX1605_W0QQi temZ360102115307QQihZ023QQcategoryZ14936 QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

And these are the the tweeters:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-PAIR-350-W-TWEETER S-CAR-AUDIO-SPEAKERS-55T_W0QQitemZ360103 110906QQihZ023QQcategoryZ14936QQcmdZView ItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

Please help, it would be greatly appreciated! thanks in advance!!


Also, what will i need to power the amp? is there an AC plug i can buy to power it? or what thanks, i'm totally new to this so any input or advice would help!
would this amp be suitable?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-CH-1600 W-Car-Audio-Amplifier-Power-Amp-Amps-FRE E-GIFT_W0QQitemZ320309821244QQcmdZViewIt em?hash=item320309821244&_trkparms=7 2%3A727%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C24 0%3A1318&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14

If I were you I would not buy all the components you have shown. I cannot give you an alternative because you did not specify your budget. You may be eager now, thinking that ”anyway, I might be changing it in the future, or might as well accept it for the time being”. But once you hear the sound of that unpopular brand, you will be disappointed with lots of frustration, in the end you might be selling it again. What a waste of time and money. Here's how I can help you. I 'll just give you a tip on what to buy.
1. Buy a head unit that will suite your budget. Get at least a 50Watts x 4 power rating. Buy only one with the features you want and intend to use. Don't buy those over-featured unit. They only give you excitement in the beginning but later on you will get sick of it.
2. For front speaker, buy a 61/2"coaxial speaker with a power rating of 60watts or more( 100w recommended - this is in preparation if you desire to buy a separate power amplifier).
3. For rear speaker, buy a coaxial, oval type speaker with a power rating of 60watts or more (100w recommended).
4. Install first the above components. Hear it and judge for yourself.
Satisfied? Is the bass OK with you? No? Do I still have money? Yes.
5. Buy an active subwoofer. This will depend on your preference. How loud it should be. Test and hear it first before you buy.
6. Once you hear it and is satisfied, you don't need to buy a separate amplifier.
7. However if you still desire a separate amp, buy one with a good brand like Rockford Fosgate, Infinity, Pioneer , Sony, Alpine, etc. All have ample power to suite your taste. Remember, buy one with a reputable brand, (take note that not all model of a known brand is good). Before buying, visit some electronic store, and have a test on their demo unit, then you will have an idea on what to buy. Hope this helps.

2008-10-30 22:39:04 by Paul W

Price: $25.99 $14.99

Blue Stripe Distinguishes the Left From Right To Enable Matching Polarity
16 AWG Wire Provides The Perfect Thickness For Installations Under 100 Ft
Perfect for Use With Banana Plugs, Spade Tips, or Bent Pin Applications
Spooled Design With Numbered Markings Per Foot Makes Measuring, Cutting, and Storing Simple
High Strand Count Copper Clad Aluminum Conductors

Okay, so I have a 1995 Toyota Camry Le Sedan 4dr, with the default AM/FM and cassette deck and stock speakers. I have finally decided that it is time to upgrade. So, here are the components I plan to install:

Deck: Sony Xplod CDX-GT62IPW
Front Speakers: Sony Xplod XS-GTX1640
Rear Speakers: Polk Audio db651s
Subwoofer: Blaupunkt GTt-1200
Sub Amp: Profile HA700M

I plan to order from Crutchfield, so I get the wiring harness, etc free. The amp doesn't come with anything extra.

Also I plan to install a security system:

Crime Guard 350i5

I have never done anything with my car, but I think I'm up to the challenge. The only DIY stuff I do is build my own computers.

Any recommendations or changes? Is there anything I forgot?

BTW these parts cost about $600. I don't want to go too much above that.

Here are the links to the items listed in the same order:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GT62IPW/ Sony-Xplod-CDX-GT62IPW.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GTX1640/ Sony-Xplod-XS-GTX1640.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB651S/P olk-Audio-db651s.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_023GT1200T/ Blaupunkt-GTt-1200.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_489HA700M/P rofile-HA700M.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_514CG350I5/ Crime-Guard-350i5.html

Thanks a million,

Anish

I agree, buy the HU from them so you get the adaptor free. Buy everything else cheaper. I like http://www.woofersetc.com alot cheaper. I would get different brands though. Forget the rear speakers, and get an amp for the front. Here is the prices from the site I stated above, on what I would get: Polk 6.5" http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuse action=product.display&Product_ID=61 37
$79.99 Sub:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuse action=product.display&Product_ID=15 12
$156.99 Amp: http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuse action=product.display&Product_ID=65 57
$244.99 Total of $481.97. Bridge the rear channels of that amp to drive the sub.

Good brands, including but not limited to: Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, JL Audio, Soundstream, ARC Audio, Cadence, Diamond Audio, Focal, Dayton (subs), Precision Power, some MTX, RE audio, Fi car audio, Sundown Audio, Hertz, MB Quart, Zapco, Infinity, Incriminator Audio, Missing Link Audio, JBL, Mach5, Ascendent audio, and DC sound labs, Digital Designs, Pioneer Premier; old school brands: Lanzar, Hifonics, Orion, and Phoenix Gold.

Mediocre brands (brands that are good for the money, but there is better): Quantum Audio, Sony ES line, Memphis (I have heard of lot's of problems with their amps), Dual, Infinity (in my opinion), Pioneer, Kenwood (in my opinion).

Junk brands, including, but not limited to: Blaupunkt (except old school stuff), Pyramid, Boss, Profile, Lanzar (except old school Lanzars), HiFonics (again except old school, series VIII and earlier), Legacy, American Pro, Rampage, MA Audio, Alphasonik, Crunch, Lightning Audio, Visionik, Audiovox, Volfenhag, Rockwood, Jensen, American Legacy, Soundstorm, Audiobahn, SPX, Sony Explod line, VR3, JVC, Pyle. Any thing at Wal-Mart, or an auto parts store.

2008-12-07 20:47:31 by Anish K

I am running Toshiba A3 HD DVD Player, a Playstation 3 as my Blu-Ray player, HDTV/DVR Cable Box, Sonos Digital Music System and a Wii through my Denon 3808ci A/V receiver into my Samsung T5265F 52" LCD HDTV controlled by Harmony 890 Remote. Infinity TSS500 surround sound audio and 2 Klipsch bookshelf speakers for audio only zone 2. I understand that room dimensions and even a blueprint are needed to give exact instruction, but based on the components and your knowledge of setting up multiple source system what are some tips, tricks and other things you can offer to a first time DIY installer.... I will have some help, from an electrician and a contractor/Handyman friend. We are mounting on Omnimount Cantilever. I will not live in this property long enough to justify tearing into walls. What do you think?? Thank you...

I assume you don't have things prewired in the walls, so I would suggest plan to hide wiring in plastic wiring channels (available in various types at Home Depot). They will allow you to run the wiring along the baseboards (assuming they are white).

Wire speakers with 12 or 14 awg wire. Ensure you observe proper phasing (red to red, black to black).

For best video make sure you have light control (e.g. good blinds or curtains on windows), and paint the walls a medium colour to cut light reflection.

Ensure a fair bit of soft material in the room to cut audio reflections. Don't plan everything symmetrical if you can avoid it. Put a carpet or area rug on the floor, particularly in front of the main speakers. If the room is too reverberant you will need to consider acoustic panels / bass traps. Google it.

Do a google search ("speaker+placement") and follow suggestions for speaker placement, including height). Look for specific suggestions for sub-woofer placement and follow them.

Mount the HDTV screen so that a point 1/3 of the screen height is at about eye level in your normal seating position. From a distance perspective, a 52" 1080p HDTV should be viewed from about 7 ft (9 ft if 720p). See link.

Make sure you calibrate the TV and the audio. Use Avia or similar for the picture (for brightness, contrast, colour, etc.) and run the auto equalization on the receiver (to set sound levels, delay, etc).

Mount the components on a rack or in some way you can access the rear for wiring adjustments, etc.

Use a UPS/surge protector for all equipment.

If you want to hide the components use IR Blaster type IR repeaters to allow putting componenets behind doors. Use an IR extender to allow the AVR to be controlled in the second room (unless the 890 is an RF remote and the Denon can be RF controlled).

Use HDMI to wire for HD. Use Monoprice or BlueJean cables rather than Monster if you want good but not expensive.

I'm probably missing somethings, but there's a good start.

Have fun.

2007-11-18 00:26:01 by jt2002champ