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Pyle PL63BL 6.5-Inch 360-Watt 3-Way Speakers (Pair) [C] [D] [-]
(Electronics) Pyle
Includes grilles, cable and mounting hardware
Frequency response: 90 Hz - 20 kHhz
One-inch neodymium film dome midrange and 3/4-inch Piezo tweeter
6.5-inch triaxial speaker with 360 Watts peak power handling
Woofer features blue poly injection cone with butyl rubber surround, ASV voice coil
Price:
$55.99
Home Speakers Answers
also when I use my cigarette lighter, it blows a fuse and taillights and dash lights go out
dude get better plug wires
good luck
Vibe Audio visited Sonic Electronix with one of their show trucks built by Pro-Line Extereme Fabrications (Pro-Line Kustoms). It is a 2005 Nissan ...
Is there only a center speaker in a chevy c10 custom deluxe truck? And if you can help me with this one, are there any aftermarket cd players that will fit in the stock location, or will I need to mod the dash? Thank much
there should be speakers in the doors as well, and possible in the back panels behind the seat. i believe u need to mod the dash, many people that don't have ac or don't use ac install the cd player in the center air vent, or u could mod up the instrument cluster space.
Price: $119.95
Pair of marine certified speakers perfect for use in boats of all types
Equipped with a 0.75-inch liquid-cooled silk-polymer composite dome tweeter
Equipped with a dynamic balance polymer/mica composite mineral-filled cone for a big sound
Maximum input power: 165 watts
Durable butyl rubber surround stands up to the stress of extreme temperatures, sunlight and time
Ive got a Ford Explorer SportTrack and i would like to get better speakers....i dont know too much about car audio systems...what am i lookin at in investing for a nice yet affordable set of speakers + sub woofer? what are the best speaker companies?
Well, there are numerous things that you need to consider when purchasing a new system... and by system I mean EVERYTHING. The first, being the speakers themselves. Stick with name brands and even go by word of mouth from people you know that also know their stuff.
Names like Rocksford Fosgate, Pioneer, MTX, are all decent and comparably priced and there are others, that is just a few to mention. Try to stay away from the budget "wal-Mart" speakers and other in-store brands, as they aren't built with quality in mind.
For the door/panel speakers, I recommend anything that has a separate tweeter mounted to the center of the speaker. Almost every good brand company from 4" to 8" sizes and oval speakers (6"x9") have them now. You want something with a larger magnet to produce good sound. The budget speakers skimp on the larger magnets and therefor do not have the capacity for decent sound, even most auto manufacturers do this... which is the reason you want to upgrade, right?
I won't say what to buy since everyone has their own opinion on the subject, but I do know personally, I have always had good dealings with Pioneer, but again, that's just me.
For a sub, you're going to end up spending anywhere between $50-$300, depending on what you want and how loud you want it. Again, stick with name brands, most have warranties that will even cover damage... sometimes.
Another thing to consider is the box to put it in. Since you have a truck with a rear seat, your options are a bit wider than those who don't, stop and talk to the local shops who do stereo work and ask them what type of box is best suited for your vehicle.
The size of the box does make a difference in sound, the smaller the box, the less air there is to push, thus the less sound is made. Then, more than one sub will make the system louder as well, at least by 50%. This also means that you don't have to turn the music up as loud to get the thumps. Some companies even have boxes specifically designed and tested with their own speakers. You don't have to get THAT box, it just means that box is best suited for those speakers, but you will pay for it.
Now, you are going to want an amp for your sub(s). Choose something made specifically for your subs. Don't get a sub that is rated at 500 watts and buy an amp that is only 100 watts.... but you don't have to buy the 500 watt amp either, get one about 100 watts below so you don't have to worry about pushing the speaker too hard. That is, until you get better in tune with how to set everything up, then you can always upgrade.
Also, cross branding is not a big deal. If you have Pioneer speakers and then find a "can't pass up" deal on a Fosgate amp, get the amp. People will try to tell you that you have to keep all brands together because they are tuned that way. That is true, but you don't buy an RCA TV and an RCA DVD player, right? You can buy any kind of TV and DVD player you want. The only thing you want to consider is the box for the subs, as I explained above. The only time you want to consider keeping brands the same are when you are in competition or you want to impress people, but I think as long as you set it up right, you'll impress them anyway when you come rollin' up and blast everyone else out of the lot.
Now, wiring is a big thing as well. There are some very important things to consider when you wire in a new amp... actually, I should mention also, never run a sub off your head unit without an amp, you could overpower the head unit and blow it.
when you get into wiring, the first thing to start with is your primary wire. You want at least 12 guage or larger. And, with wiring, the smaller the number, the larger the wire, 10 and 8 guage are good if you're going to run two subs and a high powered amp. Anything bigger and you enter a whole different area.
Your ground wire is just as important... if not more so, than your primary. You want it at least as big as your primary, but as short as you can make it to ground to the vehicle. no matter what anyone tells you, DO NOT make your ground long and small. You want it thick and short to return the power to the vehicle. I usually get about a foot extra of my primary and then just cut it off and use that.
Speaker wire is also something you want a decent size of, don't just buy any old wire off the shelf, make sure it is oxygen free and specifically made for automotive use. The size is important because if it is too small, you could actually melt it. Get something that is rated for your system. Again, go to your local stereo shops, they usually sell it buy the foot anyway.
Connectors for the wires should be brass/gold plates as they will conduct the electricity better than lead or any other standard metal and they don't cost much more.
Some sound deadening material, such as Dynamat, will help eliminate speaker rattle in the vehicle, but it is expensive. Don't be fooled by the stuff in the can that you spray on, it's only a rubberized undercoating meant for under your wheel wells.
You could spend the extra bucks to get a lightning cap to put in line with the primary wire if you notice your lights dimming when the bass hits. The cap will store power rather than taking it off the battery. A high capacity battery and/or alternator will also solve this, but most newer cars don't need them.
Lastly, make it look nice. Do some research on how to remove body panels to hide wiring and such, it will save a lot of headaches later. And make sure everything is bolted/strapped down. You don't want to have to make a sudden stop and have your amp fly through the windshield.
Hope this helps some and don't be afraid to stop in the local shops and ask for advice. Get to be freinds with them and they'll treat you right and you'll end up learning a lot more than I could ever type here.
Price: $55.00
Composite IMPP cone woofer with cloth surround
1-3/16-inch balanced dome tweeter with neodymium magnet
6-1/2-inch, two-way speakers with 180 watts maximum power handling (30 watts nominal)
30 Hz to 28 kHz frequency response; 90 dB sensitivity
Shallow depth basket for increased installation versatility
can you fit some 15. in. speakers in a regular cab silverado?
yes.
Ive got an older sony xplod cd player in my truck with 2 old TS-400 Pioneer speakers behind the seat. the cd player says on the front "50x4" or something like that. I wanted to get some 6x9's or something to add to the old speakers so i get louder clearer sound with no distortion and no real boomin bass. just a clear fairly loud sound that you can listen to AC/DC or some thing . walmart has pioneer, sony xplod, lighting audio, and dual. i dont want to spend too much money. possibly 100 bucks or less. please help!!!
well, the 50x4 means your stereo gives you 50 watts of power to each speaker [& you can put 4 speakers on it] it`s not accurate, but close enough...since you have a sony stereo [head unit] sony explodes are nice & compatible..the other speakers you named will do nicely also, but I would choose the duals last....
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1999 Mazda B2500 Truck Car Stereo Wiring Guide
Whether your an expert Mazda B2500 Truck mobile electronics installer, Mazda B2500 Truck fanatic, or a novice Mazda B2500 Truck enthusiast with a 1999 Mazda B2500 Truck, a car stereo wiring diagram can save yourself a lot of time. Automotive wiring in a 1999 Mazda B2500 Truck vehicles are becoming increasing more difficult to identify due to the installation of more advanced factory oem electronics.
One of the most time consuming tasks with installing an after market car stereo, car radio, satellite radio, xm radio, car speakers, tweeters, car subwoofer, crossovers, audio equalizer, car amplifier, mobile amp, car amplifier, mp3 player, ipod or any car audio electronics is identifying the correct color car audio wires for your 1999 Mazda B2500 Truck.
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